The road less travelled – a photographer’s journey to Unexplored Cambodia
A photographer never travels like a tourist. He’s more like an explorer and archeologist combined.
Indians have always loved to travel; it’s perhaps the hunger for knowledge in us that takes us to far and wide places. But I have to say that even today, most Indians travel like a typical tourist. Make a list of all the popular spots and check them off one by one.
For me, travel is a different story; I explore new places to experience different cultures, their lifestyle and of course, the food. I also want to see the unseen.
Be it driving through the rich landscapes of Leh-Ladakk and experiencing Buddhism on a totally different level, or the drive from Manali to Simla through the stretch of Spiti Valley. Or even take my roads trips down south to places like Tanjore, Chidambaram or Transquebar.
On these trips, none of my plans were typical. I stayed away from the common tourist points as much as possible. Besides, I always wanted a different perspective.
It was while I was at Tanjore temple I started wondering the expanse of influence our Indian culture had. That is when I started to read up bit more about Cambodia and Angkor wat temples. What I realized is that the similarities didn’t end just with the religion but also the temple architecture, food and philosophy.
I drew up the plan to visit Cambodia and Angkor, with a picture of beautiful temples tucked away and hidden among the thick Cambodian jungle. I almost felt like Indiana Jones, except that I was armed with a camera and not a whip.
The Hindu Influence on Khmer kingdom and its temples is shrouded with mystery and contradictions. If folklore were to be believed, a Khmer princess was forced to marry a foreign – Hindu prince – Kaundinya, hence the Indian influence. There are also stories of Indian traders having ventured to the Cambodian territory and saw an opportunity to capitalize the difference between the north and south factions of Khmers – as Cambodian are known.
For many centuries Hinduism prevailed and kings were devotees of Vishnu, Shiva and finally Buddha. Hence one will find so many temples dedicated to Hindu gods. Most of the temples represent Mount Meru and the carvings etc around the temples represent the story of Churning of the Sea.
The main attraction is no doubt the Angkor Wat temple that stands tall and majestic; it can put any European castle to shame or for that matter, any religious temple. The beautiful sunrise at the foot of the temple and the view from the top is something that is not to be missed. As you walk around the carvings are so intricate and stories from Mahabharata, Ramayana, are beautifully depicted.
But for me, the temple was just a stop; I was keen on exploring places that are less significant. I went on to visit Beng Mealea and Preah Vihear province. These are places that rarely feature on a tourist itinerary.
Beng Mealea was exactly the way I had fantasized Cambodian temples. Hidden between the trees and with moss all over, it is one of the most mysterious temples of Angkor ever built. Over arching trees slowly growing and consuming the structure, roots grown all over. As you walk around you will find the ruins have been untouched and the sunlight filtering through the trees, kissing the beautiful sculptures and walls. Moats surrounding the temple are filled with water and the colorful leaves scattered around adding to the contrast. The riot of colors would inspire any one to be it a painter or a photographer.
The temple itself is a delight to walk around and one can get lost as you wander through the piles of finely chiseled sand blocks, through long dark chambers and the between hanging vines. It was like I finally found what came here for — temples and ruins I always fantasied about as a kid.
Beng Mealea’s floor plan is similar to that of Angkor wat. One might even wonder if this was built a prototype model for Angkor wat. Beng Melea is two hours from Siam Reap, by road.
My next stop was Prasat Preah Vihear temple in the Preah Vihear province of Cambodia. The drive is a pleasant one and you’ll see the similarities between our countryside and theirs.
Prasat Preah vihear is perched up high in the Dangkrek Mountains. It is believed to be one the oldest Hindu temples to be built in this region and is located right on the border of Cambodia and Thailand. On reaching the foothills of the mountain you will have to take a 4X4 truck up the mountain. Your normal truck or car will not be able to navigate the slops of the mountain. The visit to Prasat Preah Vihear is an experience I will never forget. As we drove up, I was surprised to the see the army; trenches, barracks, lay all the way to the top and out of nowhere the majestic temple appears.
Like many of the temples of that era, Prasat Preah Vihear was built to represent Mount Meru. The architecture is beyond words. As you start from the bottom and walk up the monumental stairway, you will pass through the five Gopuras (five levels) decorated with intricate carvings. Once you go beyond the last gopura, you get the flavor of the vast dense Cambodian forest lay out like a green pedicure lawn. You can just sit there at the edge of the cliff and just take in all the beauty and loose track of time.
At the foot of the temple is a small piece of no man’s land, shared between Cambodia and Thailand. The visual contrast – barb-wires dividing the countries on one side and a beautiful monument on the other – is quite overwhelming. You’ll see monks in orange robes in the temple and a soldier, sitting there with a rocket launcher in the same frame.
Prasat Preah Vihear was closed for restoration for years and at the time of visit, it had just opened to the public. Incidentally, due to cross-border firing, one wing of the temple was completely destroyed.
Like I said earlier, visiting a new place is as much about its culture, food and traditions. Cambodian hospitality is very distinct. The kind of turmoil the country has gone through — famine, war and ideologies that ripped the country apart —they are still coming to terms with it. Despite all that, you won’t find a frowning face. They’re courteous and ready to help. I guess they derive their strength from their faith, which is the rock that keeps them grounded.
Not missing out on the food, Khmer cuisine is a bit like ours; they use a lot of spice and flavours and their dishes are not complete without rice and dash of lemongrass. If you are an adventurous soul, you can taste everything under the sun – seafood, horse meat, wild boar and venison.
The temples of Angkor Wat are every traveler and photographer’s delight. Steeped in history and stories etched on their walls – it’s hard to come away, even when you’re trip’s over.
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